This is the final invoice. The car was collected by Anthony on 14th May 1993, exactly 4 years after he bought it.
It was in the hands of the restorers for 954 days, 3142 working hours were invoiced.
4 May 1993
Aprilia Restoration Note - 19
- Rust is the enemy -
Monday 29th March 1993
Continue with headlamp modifications to adapt to semi-modern reflectors. Ring Adrian, he has received new lamps, bulbs and other fittings. Ring Omicron Classico re. Speedometer cable, boot handle and number plate lamp. Fit adaptor rings with shakeproof nuts with solid aluminium domed rivets & secure headlamp adjusters. Align headlamp reflector unit with backing bowl and offer up to pod and adaptor ring. Mark fitting holes, drill into pod rims and adaptors. Fit with 4BA domed plated screws and spacers. Tighten and try sections into place. Mark clearance holes for rim screws in pod perimeter, drill out. Touch in all areas with blue paint. Make up spring retainers and bolt to wings inside pods. Take 2 new springs and try up with bowl, OK. Feed both ends through panels and fit with grommets. Make two indicator lamp gaskets, clean indicator bulb holders and reflectors and spray with chrome paint, fit front indicators.
Tuesday 30th March 1993
Fit air filter and tighten clamp, top of filter needs cap sweating into place and then full paint process. Trim off head lamp wiring ready for connectors, also indicator lamps. Try windscreen wipers into place with grommet/seals, check bridging bar and decide on modifications to fit all units.
Fuel tank not allowing petrol through so check and ensure no ‘slosh wash’ sealant has blocked gauze filter, using air line nozzle, blow through tube. No air coming into tank so blockage has occurred.
Thursday 1st April 1993
Using headlamp rims as a guide, devise method of retaining them, make up two brackets per pod for the top location and one each for the retaining screws out of thick sheet brass. Drill and rivet to headlamp pods trying all sections in process.
Monday 5th April 1993
Collect battery. Remove oil pipe from engine and devise method of lengthening to replace missing pipe. Cut lengths of suitable pipe and gather together necessary fittings. Solder all joints and clean up.
Lay original pipe into position and connect to new section, work pipe through bulkhead into oil gauge position, connect to gauge. Start work on new petrol supply from tank as original gauze filter at bottom end of pipe has been blocked by ‘slosh wash’, try once more to poke through gauze, no good. Using breather pipe connection as new supply source, adapt pipe work to suit and reconnect with reinforced plastic pipe. Make up blank for original feed hole and fit. Refit tank sender unit removed to see if access to original pipe was available, tank baffles blocking way. Hand pump petrol to carb and test for leaks, OK.
Wednesday 7th April 1993
Connect battery and start engine and run for 30 seconds. Fill radiator and block with clear water and test for leaks, none apparent. Restart engine and run until normal operational temperature is attained. Stop allow to cool, check for oil, water and petrol leaks. Check oil levels, engine, g/box etc. Noise from clutch and difficulty in selecting gears is giving some problems. Dismantle cover at lower bell housing and with engine running, depress and release clutch to simulate noise. Decide to remove main cush springs from clutch one at a time to remove spacers fitted by B.S.R. Several have metal polished marks and suggest to me that they are not clearing the casting above. Re-test, OK. Re adjust clutch and fit pinch bolt missing from clutch operating lever.
Thursday 8th April 1993
Make up choke and hand throttle extensions to finish linkage, fit with appropriate connectors and tighten in situ. Test choke from cold start, not working, hand throttle OK. The original choke which is an integral part of carburettor is better than fitting a mechanical choke to the air intake as the original air filter will not be usable. Dismantle carb when Adrian is here on Monday to complete wiring. Paint number plate lamp and make up plastic rear lens, to be painted red later. Drill holes in boot panel for wiring and fit grommets.
Monday 12th April 1993
Continue with boot wiring. Find wires with plastic sheath and blend into cotton braiding, route wires along panel under rear o/s window inside boot and along boot lining panel to grommets securing with ‘P’ fasteners in brass. Test rear number plate lamp circuit and fit lamp with bullet connectors, same to loom end. Fit number plate lamp body and seal to boot lid. Fit festoon bulb to holder and check, OK. Only one festoon bulb available, needs one more for lamp and one spare. (See A. Linscott).
Drill number plate and boot to match and fit plate into aperture using 2BA chrome/brass domed screws.
Tuesday 13th April 1993
Find suitable grommets to blank original rear lamp mounting hole in boot, also fit with chromed panhead slotted screws with chrome nuts and washers spare holes for fitting lamp, look fairly respectable, perhaps locate original lamp later. Fit clear and red lenses and cover to number plate lamp (festoon to be fitted later). Take steering wheel and chromed horn push and grind away edge to ensure button does not stick when operating, OK. Take carburettor air filter and dismantle, clean to bright metal all sections including clamp. Make top nipple on lathe and solder to top of filter to blank hole, ready for paint. Dismantle donor choke assy and soak in Jizer, clean all parts.
Wednesday 14th April 1993
Reassemble choke unit and fit to carburettor. Modify cable to operate choke and fit. Make up templates to match glove box interior, cut from black leathercloth enough material to trim cavity. Cut out recess and shapes. Glue edges and fold back, glue cover for domed section. Glue main section and cavity, allow 10 mins to tack off and carefully fit. Fit glove box door handle. Fit switch ‘dummy’ nuts.
Thursday 15th April 1993
Commence polishing paint work.
Friday 16th April 1993
Continue as above.
Monday 19th April 1993
Continue as above.
Tuesday 20th April 1993
Because of unavailability of ‘tandem wipers’, devise method of joining arms with adjustable link bar. Modify two trap nuts with locking threads to ensure no movement of nut in cage. Drill both wiper arms and dome rivet nuts in place. Reassemble arms, cut to length fixing screws and taper thread ends. Take adjustable rod and make up 2 collars ends on lathe, drill and tap 6BA to match rod ends, screw units together and join arms with ‘tandem bar’. Remove screen wiper motor and dismantle.
Wednesday 21st April 1993
Remove wiper arm drive spindle and gear from front cover and turn down to match locking collets on wiper arm, reassemble wiper motor and refit to bulkhead. Remove slave spindle from car and turn down end to match arm as before. Refit.
Try up all units to car and check operations, OK. Take rubber section purchased for centre seals on doors and glue into position, check for operation, some mods required.
Wednesday 28th April 1993
Continue with polishing main body as previously described bringing paint down to cellulose appearance prior to final hand polishing.
Friday 30th April 1993
Assist A. Linscott with dynamo regulator and wiring due to faulty workmanship by previous electrical repair workshop in Devon.
Run car down road and notice rubbing, drive shaft flanges are making contact with each other at high suspension position. Remove both shafts and inspect, decide to grind away edge of webbing where obvious signs of contact are apparent. Refit one shaft and rotate, still contact. Remove and remove more material, refit and test in situ, no contact. Carry out same procedure to opposite shaft and refit. Also I noticed that there is spline wear on both shafts, but at the moment is, in my opinion, not viable as the delivery date looms. This can be sorted out at a later date and will not adversely affect the car. Front suspension very stiff, inspect tomorrow.
Saturday 1st May 1993
Strip down N.S.F. suspension and carry out checks on all units. Oil levels are as per manual, wait for call from Steve Henshall before continuing.
Monday 3rd May1993
Call Steve and receive technical data for front suspension, check out his directions and all seems as original, but still have problem, further investigation recalls that main struts are exposed to atmosphere at one small point on both sides therefore some surface corrosion has taken place. Jack up suspension until maximum of strut is exposed and rub down with fine paper. Wipe away grit and contaminates and spray with lubricant. Keep moving suspension along its normal travel until relatively easy operation is attained. There will be further easing of the problem with normal usage in my opinion. At this stage the car is near normal on the road.
Tuesday 4th May 1993
With electrics finally sorted, fit bonnet and front grille assembly. Commence final polishing and complete front to pre-wax condition. Fit steering wheel and lock with nut after centralising on the road. Horn mechanism to be fitted later. Collect jack from suppliers. Some mods required for extra height required for wheels to clear ground. Set headlamps with A. Linscott.
Friday 5th May 1993
Sand down air cleaner body and lay in stopper to level up surface.
Monday 10th May 1993
Block down stopper on air cleaner, relay with stopper. Take scissor jack and measure up for top extension peg. Turn double diameter peg in lathe and cut off at required length. Using peg and large thick washer, weld together. Weld unit to scissor jack, try on all four jacking points. Turn 2 discs and polish to face. Fit grommets and fit to front wings, insert discs (front strut oil aperture)
Tuesday 11th May 1993
Wax polish car exterior and clean windows and dash. Polish 5 road wheels and clean tyres. Check brakes, lights, steering as pre MOT check. Run car to testing station and return. Misfire in motor. Remove spark plugs and check over. Mask out and spray air cleaner.
Wednesday 12th May 1993
Adjust clutch linkage to prevent slip. Remove spark plugs again because of misfire. Seems that when engine becomes hot misfire develops. Order new plugs. Drain old engine oil and refill. Fit screen pillar mouldings and mirror, air cleaner etc. Make tool bag for jack & tools. Remove André shock absorber gauge and make new glass (face restoration at later date), refit. Make spark plug spanner to suit difficult access, really necessary.
Thursday 13th May 1993
With A. Linscott, try to find misfire. Run through carb and sort out some faults. Remove rocker box and adjust valve clearances. Timing chain slack (replace later). Replace condenser. Remove distributor and check out mechanism. Remove oil pump and check dummy shaft, small amount of play therefore timing is varying about 15º either side of T.D.C. making idling a little erratic, but not un-usable. Fit new ting (sp?) lead. Reassemble and run motor. OK until hot, misfire comes in again. Check all connections on H.T. lines, run motor and disconnect each H.T. cap in turn, notice faint tracking of spark to earth. Remove no.2 cap, tracking has occurred down centre. Dismantle and gauge out rubbish down tracking line. Vee out cracks with single component hard setting rubber to insulate bakelite.
Friday 14th May 1993
Overnight cure rubber compound, reassemble and fire motor and run until operational temperature is attained. No misfire!! Stop allow to cool. Restart and heat motor, no misfire. OK cured. Tighten handbrake cable to take up slack and also prevent cable from buzzing against propshaft coupling. Drain radiator and refill with 30% antifreeze solution. Collect tax disc from P.O.
Clean car interior and re-wax exterior. Ready for collection.
A G Auto Electrical & Restoration Services. – A. G. Linscott
9th April 1993
Making up parts for dash and mounting in place. Make up grommets for obscure shape holes at rear of dash and fit. Fit dash centre up in place and trim all wire to length and reconnect. Experiment with horn switch on steering wheel as to what has to made on lathe.
10th April 1993
Turn up parts for horn push, i.e. insulator and adjustable centre contact.
12th April 1993
Fit new switches to dash centre and wire up. Wire up head lamps and side lamps, including making loom so it is possible to remove loom or front wing without having to cut through the loom. Wire up indicators, fit flasher wire. Connect up battery and test. Headlamps work well (New headlamps impressive and up to standards of 12v system). Trace faults with rear lights to 2 faulty bulbs, get brake lamp switch working (sticky) and adjust. Remove trafficator cover and adjust shape of slot to stop trafficator binding. Test other systems, all working but charging system so remove for examination.
Note: Do you wish for the interior lights to be connected via ignition switch as original. At present I have them connected so that indicators, trafficators, horn, brake lamps and interior lights are NOT ignition fed.
Also note these are all on one fuse.
Please let J Goulstone know of your preferences.
23rd April 1993
Fitting second headlamp now that bulbs have arrived.
Fit dash lights and connect dash illumination wiring. Adjust bulb holder to stop shorting and fit extra fuse in line. Make exhaustive test on dynamo to find fault. All test undertaken and tend to indicate that dynamo and regulator are working but are not compatible. Remove regulator and disconnect dynamo and take to reconditioners with test bed facilities.
(The outcome being last reconditioners employed by Barry Simpson’s had wired field windings incorrectly inside dynamo for this type of system and could never have worked together but gave reading that proved they worked individually.)
30th April 1993
Refit overhauled dynamo and regulator to radiator assembly and connect up. Start engine and check charging system. Fitting bonnet and front grill, check oil levels, fit trade plates and road test. Problems with rear drive shafts and suspension. Also misfire under load and engine noisy. Return to workshop, remove spark plug leads and find that no.2 plug cap has been glued. The glue has failed, so drill and tap one end, fit 3 x 5BA studs, drill to correspond and re-bond with 2K adhesive. Remove engine cover and note that timing chain has been hitting cover. To reduce cover at this point, wash cover in Jizer and then in hot water to remove any swarf. Re-assemble, and re-road test. Front suspension is not right?
Jack up and tighten and re-split pin steering arms.
13 May 1993
W/Sheet to come for 8.5 hours. (Hand written note, but don’t have worksheet)
Invoice No. 77 29th March to 14th May 1993
Parts and materials:
Tools & jack £82.00
Bulbs, lead, condenser etc. strap £74.00
Oil & anti-freeze £18.00
MOT test £25.00
Road fund £68.75
254.5 hrs @ £18 per hour
3142.5 hrs £54589.00
Final note from John Goulstone to Anthony.
Recommend new carburettor, as original unit is just useable, the butterfly is a bad fit in the venturi/choke and the mixture screw does not vary mixture enough. The float chamber mounting bolt holes are cracking the casting back and eventually will leak fuel. All in all it would be prudent to change, perhaps I could get one from Omicron while you are in France.
The other main problem area is that the timing chain is slack and rattling at lot at low revolution tick over. Therefore we have set up the revs to virtually eliminate this noise. You may experience some noise at cold start but will nearly disappear as the motor reaches operational heat.
The speedometer is reading slow and the fuel gauge is not lighting up correctly. So perhaps I can contact George Filbey and have a word, but they are both usable for now.